1994.
A weekend drive to southern Uganda.
We had stopped to stretch our legs and look at the view.
A deep green sea of tree-covered hills rolled gently to the horizon, with splashes of steel blue where lakes reflected the sky and stamps of light green where banana and matoke fields had been carved out of the forest.
The sun was right above us, as it always seems to be at the equator (until it isn’t and it quickly becomes dark).
Our white Land Rover with the blue UN logo on each front door and heavy-duty radio antenna was parked by the side of the road.
The road curved around the hill top.
Orange clay and red dust at my feet.
No traffic.
Not long after we stopped, a man on a bicycle came round the bend. As I write this I realise that dad must have passed him and stopped here intentionally, waiting for him to catch-up.
He was a mzungu, like us, and his bike had bags hanging over the sides of each wheel.
I don’t remember his name but he said he came from Australia and was cycling from Cairo to Cape Town.
He asked about Rwanda.
Dad looked concerned.
I’d never seen dad look concerned before.
(Bad things were happening across the border.)
Mum asked me to get a juice from the car.
A rectangular Minute Maid carton.
Straw in a plastic wrapper. Blackcurrant.
Cairo to Cape Town.
He thanked me for the juice and soon pedalled on.
Kwaheri mzungu.
I was pleased I knew about those places.
Cape Town was in South Africa, where I was born, at the tip of Africa.
Cairo was in Egypt. There were pyramids there. That’s where Africa began.
Cairo to Cape Town.
I remember thinking that it made a lot of sense, cycling between the two.
A big adventure with a pleasant logic.
But there was a problem.
My bike didn’t have bags on the sides.
I promised myself then and there that I would also cycle from Cairo to Cape Town. Some day.
When I was older.
And had a bike with bags on the sides.
Probably when I’m thirty.
…
24 years later.
I’m 31.
My seven-and-a-half-year-old self would be pleased to know that I have a bike with a pannier bag.
But he’d be disappointed that I haven’t cycled from Cairo to Cape Town.
And I don’t think I ever will.
He was a pretty understanding, laid-back guy though and I don’t think he’d give me a hard time about it.
I know he’d be happy to hear what I’ve done instead, especially as I’ve put two of his favourite tracks in there: Juluka’s ‘Kilimanjaro’ and Philly Lutaaya’s ‘Born in Africa.’
And I’ve always liked airhorns…
Here it is, my Cairo to Cape Town.
/ / / / /
Itinerary
EGYPT
See below for the full 3 min video of a walk through Cairo (without bike sounds). It’s nice. City soundscapes should be a thing. Maybe it is?
https://youtu.be/uV-eXeLquVc
Hamid Al Shaeri – Ayonha
Al Massrieen – Sah
Both via the excellent Habibi Funk Records:
https://habibifunkrecords.bandcamp.com/
SUDAN
Sudan Archives – Come Meh Way
What a woman.
Based in LA, inspired by Sudanese fiddlers. In London for Field Day on June 1st!
On Stones Throw.
http://sudanarchives.com/
Also this, ‘Queen Kunta’ cover: https://youtu.be/X4aPe8f7Sn4
Ayman Gafar Dafaalah, Faris Mosbah, WD Alzain – Sudanese mashup
WD Alzain – Allela Lageto
A double-bill on the mix for rising star WD Alzain – those pipes though!
The two tracks together give a nice swoop through some classic Arabic tunes (the second is also a cover).
Check WD Alzain and gang making the Sahara look both fun and cool:
https://youtu.be/OgWOz-eaVTg
#JusticeforNoura
Musicians in Sudan have faced many challenges.
The reality for women, as is so often the case, remains tougher still.
https://www.change.org/p/justice-for-noura-maritalrape-deathsentence-sudan
SPREAD THE WORD!
SOUTH SUDAN
The star flag of South Sudan has been flying since 2011 – making it the newest country in the world!
Akon Makeer – Star Flag I Love You, My Country I Love You
The video made we well up a little bit. Partially because she looks a bit like my mum but also because it’s so heartfelt and powerful.
https://youtu.be/4l4w9xu0Sbg
She could also use a bit of love on her facebook page (4 likes and counting).
https://www.facebook.com/Akon-Makeer-304466146698040/
UGANDA
Philly Bongoley Lutaaya – I Was Born in Africa
This song (recorded in Sweden!) was a frequently recurring, and very welcome, soundtrack to mine and Sisselas’ childhood. Philly Lutaaya is a huge star in Uganda and his openness about AIDS and its causes helped lay the foundations for some of the first successes in battling the disease in Africa. He passed away in 1989.
https://myhero.com/PHILLY
Bantu Clan, Sabira – Africa Ni Leo
https://highlifeworldseries.bandcamp.com/track/bantu-clan-vs-sarabi-africa-ni-leo-esa-extended-mix
D.R. CONGO
Tabu Ley Rochereau – Hafi Deo
https://soundwayrecords.bandcamp.com/track/hafi-deo
KOKOKO! – Likolo
‘KOKOKO! is the soundtrack of Kinshasa’s tomorrow.’
Fantastic musicians. Homemade instruments. Débruit on the knobs and twiddlees. Awesome live.
kokokomusic.bandcamp.com
Débruit’s other projects are also great:
https://soundcloud.com/debruit
ZAMBIA
Sampa The Great – Blessings
http://sampathegreat.com/
ZIMBABWE
Chiwoniso – Zvichapera
Famous for modernising the thumb harp, traditionally played by men. She passed away in 2013, only 37 years old.
https://chiwoniso.bandcamp.com/
Bhundu Boys – Foolish Harp/Waerera
Awesome band, sad story: ‘Jinxed: the curse of the Bhundu boys’
https://www.theguardian.com/music/2006/sep/17/worldmusic
Hallelujah Chicken Run Band – Mudzimu Ndiringe
http://afrobeat-music.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/hallelujah-chicken-run-band-take-one.html
Thomas Mapfumo’s first band.
Thomas Mapfumo – Gwindingew Rine Shumba
A Zimbabwean hero. ‘The Lion of Zimbabwe’ holds another well-earned double-bill in this mix.
https://thomas-mapfumo.com/
More about Chimurenga music: http://www.zambuko.com/mbirapage/resource_guide/pages/music/chimurenga.html
SOUTH AFRICA
Sonny Okosun – Fire in Soweto
https://www.theguardian.com/music/2008/aug/04/popandrock.nigeria
Letta Mbulu – Kilimanjaro
https://thevinylfactory.com/features/sweet-juju-the-music-of-south-african-vocalist-letta-mbulu-in-10-enchanting-songs/
Om Alec Khaoli – Say You Love Me
http://www.musicismysanctuary.com/om-alec-khaoli-say-love-1985-awesome-tapes-africa
Hugh Masekela – Don’t Go Lose It Baby
Jazz legend, passed away in January. Check out his Desert Island Discs:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00938bc
Brenda & The Big Dudes – Weekend Special
https://www.theguardian.com/news/2004/may/11/guardianobituaries.southafrica
Johnny Clegg & Juluka – Kilimanjaro
Given on my own Desert Island Discs. Big tune and big ‘pain in the ass of apartheid.’
https://www.zammagazine.com/chronicle/chronicle-35/569-johnny-clegg-a-pain-in-the-ass-of-apartheid
Brown Dash – Nomalizo
http://kwaitomusic.co.za/artists/brown-dash/
Mapaputsi – Woza Friday
‘Woza’ is Zulu for ‘Come’ – ‘Come Friday!’
https://www.last.fm/music/Mapaputsi/+wiki
Pitch Black Afro – A Day In the Life
Pitch Black Afro has a stutter but raps with smooth, humorous flow in Zulu, English and the totsi taal slang language mash-up. His biggest hit is ‘Matofotofo,’ which I’ve been told is an affectionate term for a ‘woman who is like a big leather couch.’
https://www.bbc.co.uk/music/artists/7a1c9a14-4fa3-4ca9-b32c-8264694e0061
Penny Penny – Shaka Bundu
This is a great story:
https://www.theguardian.com/culture/australia-culture-blog/2014/may/29/penny-penny-from-pop-to-politics-and-back-again
Aba Shante – Girls
Classic kwaito tune.
https://zamzak.com/aba-shante-girls/
Afriquoi – Kudaushe
These guys are London-based and from a whole bunch of places, but, as far as I can tell, not from South Africa! (D.R. Congo, Zimbabwe, Gambia, UK and somewhere in the Caribbean).
Great live!
http://www.afriquoi.com/
On the excellent Wormfood label: http://www.wormfood.co.uk/
Sun-El Musician ft. Samthing Soweto – Akanamali
A huge hit in South Africa last year. In Zulu. ‘Akanamali’ means ‘she doesn’t have money.’
(I’m pretty sure he loves her anyway though. Don’t even worry about it.)
www.facebook.com/sunelmusician
Mandoza – Respect Life
This is interesting:
https://theconversation.com/game-changer-mandoza-defied-south-africas-elitist-cultural-norms-65916
Cheering crowd at a Jo’burg vs Cape Town rugby varsity match
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ9iwXKQGW8
Hope you enjoy!
In the words of Mandoza: Hlonipha bonke abantu!
(Respect all people)